Most people arrive in Tenerife with a beach towel and a plan to do very little. Fair enough, the sunshine is excellent. But if you only ever see the southern resorts, you’re missing the island’s wilder, greener and frankly more surprising side. Tucked into the northeast corner is Anaga Rural Park, a tangle of steep ridges, misty valleys and ancient forest that feels like a different island altogether. It’s one of the best days out you can have, and most holidaymakers never get there.
A Forest From Another Age
Anaga is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and the reason is largely its laurel forest. This type of woodland once covered huge parts of southern Europe millions of years ago, before the climate changed and wiped it out almost everywhere. Here, thanks to the clouds that drift in from the Atlantic and cling to the mountain ridges, it survived. Walking through it feels a bit like stepping into a fantasy film. Twisted trees are draped in moss, ferns carpet the ground, and the air is cool, damp and smells wonderfully of earth.
The park is also home to a remarkable number of rare plants and animals, including species found nowhere else in the world. You might not spot many of them, but you’ll feel the richness of the place just by being there. Bird lovers should keep their ears open, as the forest is full of song.
Why It Feels So Different
The geography does a lot of the work. Anaga is one of the oldest parts of Tenerife, formed millions of years before Teide existed, and time has carved it into sharp, dramatic shapes. Narrow ridges drop away into deep ravines, and tiny villages perch on slopes that look far too steep for anyone to live on. The roads twist and turn constantly, so it’s worth taking your time and not rushing from one viewpoint to the next.
The weather also plays a part. While the south may be baking in sunshine, Anaga often wears a hat of cloud. That’s what keeps it so green, and it’s also what gives it its moody, atmospheric charm. Don’t be put off by a grey start to your day. The clouds often lift, and when they part to reveal a view stretching down to the sea, it’s pure magic.
Take A Hike
Walking is the best way to experience the park, and there’s a trail for almost every level. One of the most famous is the path through the forest of Pijaral, often called the Path of the Senses, which is short, gentle and beautiful. If you want something longer, there are routes that link remote hamlets or drop down from the mountains to the coast, rewarding you with sea views at the end.
Some trails are steep and rocky, and after rain they can get slippery, so wear proper walking shoes and don’t underestimate the terrain. It also helps to start early. Not only will you beat the crowds at popular spots, but you’ll often get clearer views before the cloud settles in. Make sure you check the weather and trail conditions before you go, as some paths close in poor conditions.
Villages Time Forgot
One of the loveliest things about Anaga is its small villages. Taganana is a favorite, a pretty little place surrounded by terraced hills, with a church that dates back centuries and a handful of friendly restaurants. Nearby, you’ll find Almáciga and Benijo, where the road ends at wild, black-sand beaches pounded by Atlantic waves.
Benijo is especially popular at sunset. Grab a table at a seaside restaurant, order grilled fish and a cold drink, and watch the light turn golden over the rocks. It’s a world away from the resort strips of the south, and it’s hard not to fall in love with it.
Another highlight is Chinamada, where some residents still live in cave houses dug into the rock, a tradition that goes back to the Guanches. It gives you a real sense of how people have adapted to this rugged landscape over the centuries.
Beaches With Attitude
Speaking of the coast, the beaches here have a very different vibe from the southern ones. The sand is dark volcanic, the waves are strong, and swimming isn’t always safe. Take local warning flags seriously, and if conditions look rough, stay out of the water. That said, some spots are sheltered enough for a dip when the sea is calm, and even if you just paddle, the scenery is spectacular.
The beach at Las Teresitas, near San Andrés, is a notable exception. It’s a long, golden stretch with imported sand and a calm, protected bay, making it a good choice for families. It’s a nice contrast to the wilder shores nearby, and a handy place to finish a day of exploring.
Getting There And Getting Around
Anaga sits close to Santa Cruz and La Laguna, so it’s easy to reach from the capital. You can drive, which gives you the most flexibility, but be prepared for narrow, winding roads and tight bends. Take it slowly, use the viewpoints to pull over safely, and keep an eye out for cyclists and hikers. Buses also connect some of the villages, though schedules can be limited, so check times in advance.
Parking at popular spots, particularly the forest trailheads, can fill up quickly, especially on weekends. Arriving early helps, and some areas have introduced visitor controls or rules to protect the environment, so it’s worth finding out what applies on the day you plan to go.
Respect The Place
Anaga is a fragile environment, and it’s a living community too. Stick to the marked trails, take your rubbish with you, and don’t pick plants or disturb wildlife. Keep noise down in the villages and be respectful of the people who call this place home. A little courtesy goes a long way, and it helps keep Anaga beautiful for the next visitors.
Plan Ahead
Conditions in the park can change from day to day, and local events, road closures or new regulations sometimes pop up. To stay on top of what’s going on across the island, Tenerife Weekly – Tenerife news portal is a great place to keep an eye on before you set off.
Go And See For Yourself
Tenerife is full of contrasts, and Anaga might be the most striking of them all. Swap the sunbed for a hiking trail for a day, and you’ll come back with a very different picture of the island. Pack a light waterproof, bring your curiosity, and get ready to see a side of Tenerife that most visitors never find.